Yes, believe it or not you can remove the entire guts of the saw with minor disassembly.
The other approach removes the major components intact for further disassembly on your bench. One approach is to remove the tilt shaft while everything is still inside the cabinet, which frees up the tight fitting connections between all the major components and enables you to lift them straight out. There are two different approaches to removing the internal guts of a unisaw. Now we’re getting serious and about to go beyond the point of no return. Despite your first thoughts that only a fool would press forward believe me, it tain’t nothing what you are about to do next. Now you are gazing into the cabinet and in awe of the genius of Herbert Tautz. At this point the table can be handled by one person but it doesn’t hurt to have a helper.
With the extensions off you only need to remove the four hex head cap screws at the four corners of the cabinet and the top is off. More on re-aligning the top can be found at the end of this articlette. This will ensure that any sleds you have or zero clearance inserts will not have to be overly re-calibrated. Chances are you’ll never get it exactly right back where it was (exact being within a “thou” or two) but you need to get it as close as possible. It does not hurt to note which extension is right and which is left.īefore moving on to removing the top it is a good idea to make note of where one or the other miter slot is in relation to the blade.
Unisaw extension table free#
The table will want to swing down one end or the other and you can just let it do so while holding the table with one arm and removing the last screw with your free hand. With those gone, and still supporting the table, remove the last screw. I like it loosened because I can gage when there’s pressure exerted and in fact I hold it up (don’t let it sag to where all the weight is on the one screw). The reason for the support is once you have two of the three screws removed the whole weight is on the last screw which isn’t quite rated to hold the entire extension. For instance, under no circumstance is a Stanley nail set the same as a pin punch just as a chisel is never a screwdriver.ĭepending on the fence style remove the screws holding the rails in place.įor the table extensions I find it best to loosen all the screws but remove the two screws at each end first while supporting the table with my gut. It is important to use the correct tools when the correct tools are called for.
Unisaw extension table how to#
I will say that the make up of the saw hasn’t changed drastically and any smart human can and will figure out how to get a newer saw apart. Since 1939 there have been many “value engineering” changes to the Unisaw and while I’ll try and catch each one I won’t guarantee that I’ll cover them all. I should note that this write up is based on an early vintage Unisaw. As the saying goes, “in for a penny, in for a pound”. Most people, if they are going through the entire process, will elect to repaint. It should be noted that even the saddest of bastards with no broken parts really only need a good cleaning to get them back to working properly. This article will take you through the process and in the end you can, if you choose, take every bit and piece apart, bring it back to factory fresh and put it all back together to where it works like the day the saw was born. On the scale of Easy to Hard the Unisaw really falls way down on the list towards Easy as a machine that normal humans can dismantle and put back together *if* you have a little bit of mechanical knowingness and the proper tools. If you are a first time restorer of woodworking machines you might want to read the Restoration Guide and the Electrolysis Guide Larger photos are available on Joe's website.) They were not taken specifically for this wiki, but fit (mostly) pretty well. How to Properly Disassemble and Clean a Unisaw ¶ How to Properly Disassemble and Clean a Unisaw
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